This Torreya tree is about 500 years old, with a height of 10 meters and a circumference of 5.2 meters at chest height. When viewed from the front, a large branch extends long from 1.87 meters above ground, with shorter branches at the back and similar-sized branches on both sides. The circumference at the base of the largest branch is 2.6 meters. It is said that when the Jeolla Byeongmajeoldosa Office was established here in the 17th year of King Taejong’s reign, all useful trees were cut down, but this tree was left because it was crooked and short, making it unusable. During the 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty, Byeongyeong Fortress was the defensive position in the Honam region, and although it was captured by Donghak rebels in the Gap-O Rebellion leading to its eventual abandonment, many soldiers were stationed nearby, and the tree seems to have been well protected because its fruit was used for treating tapeworm infections. Villagers regard this tree as the guardian deity of the village and hold a Dangsan rite every year on the first full moon (lunar January 15). After viewing the Torreya tree and leaving the village, there is Jeolla Byeongyeong Fortress, the Jeolla Army Headquarters during the Joseon period, and the Hamel Memorial about a 10-minute walk across the Byeongyeongcheon bridge.
Gangjin Byeongyeong Village is a village that originated from the designation of an old army command post (Yeong, 營) and has continued its legacy through a long history. It is a natural fortress in a basin shape surrounded by large and small mountains such as Suinsan, Seongjasan, Oknyobong, Byeollaksan, and Hwabangsan. Early on, Byeongyeong Fortress, which oversaw the military authority of Jeollado, was located here, and the village achieved rapid commercial development. A historical site designated as ‘Byeongyeong Fortress Site’ remains here, bearing witness to that history. The village’s wall is generally a stone-and-earth wall with alternating layers; the lower part is built with relatively large granite stones, and from the middle upwards, relatively small stones about the size of an adult fist are used. The top of the wall is roofed with tiles. Additionally, auxiliary buildings that function as part of the wall are constructed to the same height and in the same style as the wall, harmonizing well with it. The wall height is about 2 meters, relatively high, which seems related to the nature of the Byeongyeong Village. The village pathways are straight, making the wall appear more orderly. In particular, the construction method called the ‘Hamel-style wall building,’ learned from Hamel and his group during their seven-year stay from 1656 to 1663, shows a unique style different from other regions: thin stones are laid at about a 15° angle packed densely above the middle section, and the next layer is built in a staggered pattern, a kind of herringbone pattern.
[Hamel Residence] Members of Hamel's party, 33 people drifting onto Jeju Island while en route to Japan as part of the Dutch East India Company, were exiled to Hanyang, Gangjin, Yeosu, etc. Hamel in particular lived here in Gangjin Byeongyeong from 1656 to 1663 for about seven years. Hamel's group survived by doing odd jobs, making and selling wooden clogs, and performing dances for pay. They are said to have had close exchanges with civilians and monks. It is speculated that they introduced wooden clogs to Korea since Korean clogs differ from Japanese ones and are similar to Dutch clogs made in one piece. Some comb-patterned stone walls left by them remain in some parts of this area. Hamel is said to have thought of his hometown while looking at Suin Fortress under this ginkgo tree. After finishing their stay in Byeongyeong in 1663, 12 were sent to Jwasuyeo, 5 to Suncheon, and 5 to Namwon, with 7 escaping from Yeosu in September 1666, the final place of stay. They then wrote the "Hamel's Journal," which was the first record to inform the West about life in Joseon. In December 2007, Gangjin-gun opened the Hamel Memorial Hall to commemorate the historical significance of Hamel's drifting in Joseon and to promote cultural exchange between Korea and the Netherlands. [Gangjin Seongdong-ri Ginkgo Tree] This area was the administrative center of Dogang (Dogang) prefecture during the Goryeo dynasty, and in the 17th year of King Taejong’s reign (1417) in the Joseon dynasty, it became the site where the Byeongmajeoldosa office was located. The Seongdong-ri Ginkgo Tree is about 300m from Jeolla Byeongyeongseong and is near the Hamel Memorial Hall. Estimated to be around 800 years old, this ginkgo tree stands tall in the center of Dongseong Village, symbolizing the village. It is 30m high, 6.75m in circumference, and has a straight and beautiful shape. Hamel's journal, documenting his stay from 1656 to 1663, also mentioned the ginkgo tree. According to legend, an official appointed as Jeolla Byeongmajeoldosa fell ill after sleeping with his head on a wooden pillow made from this tree. Despite all medicines being ineffective, an old man advised performing a ritual to the tree and attaching the pillow to it, which led to his recovery. Since then, the village holds an annual ritual at midnight on the 15th day of the 2nd lunar month praying for peace and a bountiful harvest. Jeolla Byeongyeongseong and Hamel Memorial Hall are located nearby.
Jeonla Byeongyeongseong [全羅兵營城] was established in the 17th year of King Taejong of Joseon (1417) and served as the army's general command overseeing 53 provinces and 6 garrisons including Jeollanam-do and Jeju-do for over 500 years until the Gabo Reform in the 32nd year of King Gojong (1895). However, it was destroyed by fire during the Gabo Peasant War (Donghak) in 1894 and was subsequently abolished by the new system of the 1895 Gabo Reform. The fortress walls of Byeongyeongseong are 1,060m in total length, 3.5m in height, and the area is 93,139㎡ (28,175 pyeong). It is currently designated as Historic Site No. 397. (Source: Gangjin-gun Cultural Tourism Homepage)
Byeongyeong was established in the 17th year of King Taejong of Joseon (1417) to defend against foreign invasions in the Namhae region and served as a military stronghold protecting Honam for over 500 years, with Honggyo as its gateway. This Honggyo is also called Baejingang Bridge and was meticulously constructed by stacking 74 rectangular granite stones in 26 rows like a rainbow, reinforced with gravel, and then compacted with clay on top. The dragon head protruding at the center of the arch's upper part holds a yeouiju in its mouth and appears to raise its head as if to summon wind and clouds. Its appearance is very humorous, and the ornamentation seems to symbolically suggest the outer reverence of Maninwolgyo faith. Based on records, the bridge was supervised and completed by Yang Hanjo to commemorate the homecoming of Ryu Hangye, who was appointed Sungnokdaebu in Gaseondongchu Gyeongsul (1739) during the reign of King Sukjong (1698), suggesting it was built in the 18th century and is a masterpiece.
